Monday, June 17, 2013

Growing with hydroponics. Necessities and things you will need to know

Using Hydroponics to grow plants, there are a few things that are really necessary which are different from growing in soil. Whatever Hydroponic system you choose to use, you will have to deal with this sometime.

WaterPlants grown in an indoor herb or vegetable garden require much less water compared to soil-based gardens, as hydroponic systems are able to recycle the nutrient solution.  Use purified or reverse osmosis filtered water, as poor water quality can have an adverse effect on your plants. If you just want to risk it with tap water, at least leave the water uncovered overnight with a air stone to aerate the  chorine or floride out. You can also use rainwater. Before adding fresh water to your reservoir it is important to allow it to reach room temperature, as plants do not like rapid temperature changes in the root zone.

Nutrients – The hydroponic nutrients you choose are the most important aspect to grow hydroponic herbs. Make sure to use a high-quality line. (More on this in the future) Several different herbs/vegetables may be grown in a single nutrient solution; however, care must be taken to avoid minor nutrient deficiencies. Make sure to monitor and control the balance of the nutrient solution on a daily basis. Completely replace the nutrient solution every 7 to 14 days, depending upon plant size and nutrient usage. 

Equipment –
You are strongly recommend to have a digital pH tester and EC/PPM meter to accurately check the pH and nutrient strength of the system. Generally the nutrient strength should run between 800 to 1500 parts per million (ppm), though the exact ppm requirements will vary depending on circumstances and style of growing.  The pH of the nutrient solution should be between 5.5 and 6.0. This also depends on the type of plants you are growing, but a general rule of thumb its usually between 5.5 to 6

Environmental Conditions – Most herbs grow well at temperatures between 20 to 26°C( 70-80°F). They prefer relative humidity levels around 40-50%, some sun, and adequate drainage. You can also propagate some herbs from cuttings especially Basil. 

Lighting - It is important to provide enough light for your herb garden. If your light levels are low, give them a boost with some lights/LED/HPS/CFL above the top of your plants. I am planning a whole section just on lights soon. Using the right light spectrum will greatly increase growth and yield. CFL Lights and LED Lights for hydroponics are a hotly debated issue. 

Pesticide Use - 
If you are growing your own herbs/vegetable, you would probably not want to use any chemical based pesticides for your own sake. 
A good preventative, such as insecticidal soap, will usually keep most pests under control. Sticky traps should be used for indicators of what is present. Indoors, herbs tend to be more attractive to aphids and whiteflies. Use a organic pestide if you really have to. Come back for  a recipe for some homemade pesticide soon.

Choosing Your Herbs - Some herbs naturally lend themselves better to indoor growing conditions. Hydroponics for Parsley, basil, sage and thyme are known to hold up stronger inside. My favourite as you can see is still Basil...

I have just transplanted my basils seedlings into their new environment. Will post up something about that soon. 

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Doing research now for the purchase of LED lights for hydroponics. One important consideration is heat sink for the light. as it adds to the cost quite abit.

I just found spent the last 3 hours reading everything about heat sinks. 

Did you know that.... 


The scientific analysis of aluminium vs copper as a heat sink, 
copper has a conductivity of about 9 watts/inch degree C; Aluminum, about 5 watts/inch degree C.
In other words, copper conducts heat almost twice as much as aluminium.

But... that does not mean that copper is better than aluminium, there is still something called thermal schematic from heat sink to air and then the temperature gradient of the design.   0,o  

Meaning... the design can actually make the cheaper aluminium become as efficient as copper. Or copper can be worst as a heatsink depending on the design.

Aluminium has much lower anisotropic values (1.22) compared to copper (3.16). This results in lower vibrational entropy which microscopically (quantumly) means much lower thermal capacity leading to lower heat storage levels than that of copper. So, yes! while copper tends to conduct and accelerates heat diffusion much faster than aluminium  copper's higher vibrational entropy stores heat energy longer while it is being transformed from thermal to vibrational entropy back to thermal, and that is why its release speed of heat is significantly lower than that of copper. so while for cooling heat diffusion is faster in copper, heat release is lower in copper and higher in aluminium  For heating, not quite so! while for coils inside the warmer medium (condenser is now inside the room) heat is dissipated faster by aluminium coils, which is what we need to get warm, evaporator coils outside in colder temperatures need to be copper so that they absorb heat faster, and store heat longer. 

In short....(i found this very good article that puts it in layman terms... 

Copper and aluminum are both effective materials for heat sink construction, but they have different requirements. If you want to know why, consider a great chef's kitchen.

Aluminum sure can move heat, if it has been done right. It very efficiently absorbs and transfers heat to it's environment and things that interact with it. This works great for bacon in the morning, and even for boiling water, but isn't so good for a large, thick filet mignon. That cold slab of beef sucks the heat right out of the aluminum, and there isn't any left to keep up the cooking. Many people who buy aluminum cookware have a lot of trouble doing steaks properly for this very reason. Aluminum has a low thermal capacity, and a very high thermal conductivity.

As such, aluminum just wicks heat away with little concern for anything else. It won't wick as much as copper, but it sure will move it quickly; Dumping it's capacity as soon as any heat leaves the sink, and quickly soaking up more.

Copper moves heat as well, even if it hasn't been done all that well. Copper very efficiently absorbs and transfers heat as does aluminum. It does it faster, as well. That said, copper has an incredibly high thermal capacity. That big fat steak just can't suck up all the heat that copper will hold on to, and this is where copper and aluminum differ in requirements. Copper won't readily dump all the heat energy it picks up, because it holds so much of it before it changes temperature to any great degree.

That leaves us with a problem. Copper needs help. Somehow, you have to remove all that heat from the copper, as it will just hold on to it otherwise. A copper heat sink can work much better than an aluminum one, but you have to either have loads of pipes and lots of fins and airflow, or you need peltier/water cooling with excellent transfer to help it out.

The thermal capacity of copper, when compared to an aluminum heat sink of the same design, completely removes the benefit of using copper in the first place without help. As a matter of fact, a poorly designed copper sink can be much worse than an aluminum model.

The best way to use the materials is being tried nowadays, and that is combining them. As with most good things, they work better together than apart.


WHEWWWW..... this is heavy... but now i know that its not necessary to spend much more for copper as long as i find someone who knows what to do with aluminium.  :D 

Monday, June 10, 2013

Day 10, the forest is growing strong...

It's day 10, the basil are showing signs of strong growth. Added 1litre( about 2pints) of water at a  PH5.4 when I felt the rock wool was a little too dry. I will probably go n get hydrometer soon so i can check accurately.
Other than that. It was all left to their own devices...
I am thinking when to add the nutrient solution. Does anyone know if its useful at this stage?

Most of the seeds have sprouted by now. Just 3 are completely quiet.  I will add some more seeds into those and recycle. 

As you can see.. Mostly they are very robust... Especially the Basil Genovese,  Except for The opal basil.. Those are not doing so well.  The other basil varieties are mostly doing ok. My ambient humidity meter has not arrived yet.... 
Look at the plant in the foreground. Looks like the leaves are drying out. Well.. Will hope for the best. In a few days time I guess they will be ready for transfer into their proper habitat.. If I can get around to fixing that contraption....


Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Day 5, Little basil forest is starting

It's day 5! Amazing what we have seen so far, out of 98 cubes.. We have almost all germinated and showing robust growth.
There are a few empty holes if u look closely.. I hope they are just slow developers and not stillborn...

Closer view. 

It's really joyous to see them grow so nicely. 

Imagine.. From seed to 3cm in 5 days! 

Next are some "basil forest" views... 

Cinnamon basil amoung her cousins.. 
One of the "slow developers" still hiding in their burrow... 

  So far, I have not added water, nor added any other nutrients since the seeds were planted. 

Monday, June 3, 2013

Day 3, sprouts are showing

Day 3, it looks promising. Most of the seeds have sprouted. Small little seedlings are growing! So excited!

As you can see.. Almost all are showing signs of growth.. I have to prepare to transfer them soon! 


It's really exciting to see plants growing. 

Close up of the sprouts.

So far I have not done anything at all.. Just left them as they were since day one. Perhaps will need to add water soon. But it looks n feels completely fine currently.